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Yes,
it's still Sidmouth!
The
elegant seaside resort of Sidmouth, in
East Devon, woke up with a pleasant start
recently to discover that Slough was not
the only place Sir John Betjeman had
decided to immortalise in verse.
Deckchairs
fluttered along the famous Georgian
esplanade and china rattled in a dozen tea
rooms in what is perhaps England's most
cherished seaside town, as news spread of
the chance discovery, at the back of a
cupboard in a television station, of a
'lost' poem about Sidmouth.
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Written
by Betjeman in 1962 as the script for his film
about the town, it had been shown once and then
forgotten for almost 40 years, before being found
in a rusting tin of cine-film.
Produced
for the regional television company TWW (later to
become HTV) it was the first time that the man who
was later to become poet laureate had ever written
a script in rhyme. It also marked the first
collaboration with the documentary film-maker,
Jonathan Stedall, then a 23-year old director, and
the start of a friendship which was to last until
the poet's death, in 1984.
"Our
brief was to create portraits of places which were
close to Betjeman's heart," Jonathan Stedall
recalls in his Introduction to the book, "and
Sidmouth was, I believe, the first place we visited
together."
Why
Betjeman chose the town for the first of his twelve
locations or why he decided to immortalise it in
poetry, no one is sure. Betjeman wrote two other
television scripts as poetry, one on Marlborough,
his old school, which he loathed, the other on
Brunel, whom he greatly admired. But neither
subject allowed the poet the lightness of touch he
employed in this masterful sketch of what now
stands revealed perhaps as his favourite seaside
town.
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Broad
crescents basking in the summer
sun,
A sense of sea and holidays begun,
Leisure to live and breathe and smell
and look,
Unfold for me this seaside history
book.
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He
worked closely with Stedall during the planning of
the film and spent three days at a seafront hotel,
discussing what might be included. But as with all
their work together, Betjeman waited until he was
invited to the cutting room before writing his
script to picture. Then he wrote "Still Sidmouth"
in rhyme, in a single sitting, astounding
everybody.
"One
of Betjeman's outstanding qualities was his
kindness and I think this shows in the script,"
Stedall says. "A lot of his observations are very
personal. He imagines, for example, what people
might be saying to one another or what they might
be thinking. But he is never cruel. Fundamentally
he loved life and people."
As
Stedall's discreet camera follows two women,
strolling to the town's narrow shopping streets,
Betjeman pictures their conversation:
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Clocks
in a hundred houses chime three,
It's time to saunter to the town to
tea.
To exercise the dog and have a chat
On this and this and that and that,
"Two and eleven?
My goodness, what a price,
Now don't go there, dear, take my
advice."
"Oh, everything is dearer now I
fear,
Do you find dear things so much dearer,
dear?"
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Betjeman
certainly knew the town well and was undoubtedly
attracted by its architecture. But Sidmouth has
many charms, not least which is its location.
In
the 1790s, "sunny Sidmouth", the little borough
flanked by towering red cliffs at the mouth of the
river Sid, drew the historian, Polwhele, to write
in praise of "the salubrity of the air, the fine
dry soil, and a situation the most delicious, open
to the south-sea yet not subject to fogs, and
screened from all but the southern winds." Little
wonder that by the end of the century Sidmouth had
become a fashionable resort.
Sidmouth
is little changed since the film was made - except
(as elsewhere) for traffic, which Betjeman hated.
Admittedly the butchers with its polished brass
shop front became a bistro and the old-fashioned
oil shop went on to sell reproduction furniture -
but Sidmouth is still Sidmouth and the fabric of
the place remains much as Betjeman saw it.
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Mansions
for admirals by the pebbly strand
And cottages for maiden aunts,
inland,
That go with tea and strawberries and
cream,
Sweet sheltered gardens by the twisting
stream,
Cobb, thatch and fuschia bells, a Devon
dream!
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Betjeman's
genius for words and their effortless delivery
perfectly complemented Stedall's style of film
making. During 22 years they produced many
memorable programmes together, including, famously,
Summoned by Bells, and Thank God it's
Sunday.
Shortly
before the poet laureate's final illness and his
consequent retreat from public life, Stedall
stepped unobtrusively in front of the camera, to
lead Betjeman back through many memories of his
life to produce the autobiographical, Time with
Betjeman .
Sir
John Betjeman was born in Highgate, London in 1906
and published more than 60 books of poetry and
prose. He was awarded the CBE in 1960, made a
Knight Bachelor in 1969 and became poet laureate in
1972, the most widely read since Tennyson and
perhaps the best loved of them all.
He
died at Trebetherick, Cornwall in May, 1984 after a
long illness, with Stedall one of the six pall
bearers at the funeral. They carried Betjeman's
coffin through driving rain across a mile of
countryside to St. Enodoc's churchyard, where he is
buried. "It was," Stedall recalls "as though the
elements themselves were celebrating his
extraordinary life."
The
178-lines of classic Betjeman in "Still Sidmouth"
provide a glimpse of his gentle and sometimes
mischievous sense of fun which endeared him to
millions of readers and viewers - as the last but
one line of the poem reveals:
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Farewell,
seductive Sidmouth by the sea,
Older and more exclusive than
Torquay,
Sidmouth in Devon, you're the town for
me!
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'Still
Sidmouth,' illustrated with 80 small
'stills' from the film and introduced by
Jonathan Stedall, is available in
paperback from, Peretti Publishing, Ottery
St. Mary, Devon EX11 1YH at £3.95
(plus 70p p&p).
ORDER
BOOK
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